I find those three links are interesting because they have unique style to present the idea into a blog.
- Weaving Spirit
Weaving is a method of fabric
production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are
interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. The other methods are knitting, lace making and felting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and
the lateral threads are the weft or filling.
(Weft is an old English word meaning
"that which is woven". The method in which these threads are inter
woven affects the characteristics of the cloth.
Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while
filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band which meets this
definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between) can also
be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back-strap, or other
techniques without looms.
The way the warp and filling threads
interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven products
are created with one of three basic weaves, plain weave, satin weaves, or twill. Woven
cloth can be plain (in one colour or a simple pattern), or can be woven in
decorative or artistic designs.
This
traditional weaving have the potential to change become modern and stylish
basic for fashion design.
- Spins a Yarn
The idea to spins the yarn is really interesting and awesome idea because we can explore the new design using this method. One of the example is Merino wool
Merino wool can be considered a
little more difficult to spin than other wool fibers. This is due to it
having (usually) a higher lanolin content than other wools. The higher
the lanolin in the wool, the more the fibers cling to each other, and drafting
for hand spinning is not as easily smooth. A comparison fiber would be
that of a llama. Llama fiber is also very soft, but is drier and has much
less cling to the fiber, making it very easy to spin the individual hairs into
place.
Merino wool is a
relatively short-length fiber, with a staple length that averages from 2 to 4
inches. In combination with the lanolin content, this wool takes patience
to draft effectively. It is similar in some ways to spinning
cotton.
The care and
patience Merino takes to hand spin is rewarded by a very soft, warm, and
versatile wool yarn. The steps shown below may also be used for hand
spinning any wool fiber, but I chose Merino as an example because I feel if you
can spin Merino well, you can spin just about any fiber. The Merino shown
in the photos is what might be considered grade "B" wool fiber - it
has a very high lanolin content, and is of a staple length of about 2 to 3
inches, making it a more "difficult" fiber. Higher grade Merino
fiber will spin much more easily.
When you use a hand
spindle to spin wool, you will find that the "hairs" or wool fibers
cling to each other. Especially with "high grease content"
wools, that same "cling" means that the drafting of the fibers while
spinning has to be even and steady, otherwise the fibers will clump together
too much.
The first issue to
consider is the raw fiber to be spun. With this page, I will show Merino
wool that has been washed and then lightly carded. Merino is also
commercially available as a roving. A roving can be separated into strips
of fiber, which then can be spun as a strip. In that sense, roving is
slightly easier to spin as the spinner can use a strip of fiber as wide or
narrow as they choose. I personally prefer to use lightly carded fiber,
as I find the wool is softer prior to it being heavily processed by a more
complete carding to make a roving.
Below is a photo
which shows two wool cards, raw Merino fiber, and a hand spindle.
A close-up of the
fiber shows that the lanolin content, or the quality of the fiber, will allow
clumps to form. These should be removed as the spinner spins, but it's
really a personal choice. A very smooth, well-spun "single"
strand of yarn will have no clumps and will be evenly spun. That would be
considered the goal. My own homespun Merino is never quite like that as I
allow some clumps to remain, personally liking the slight variations in the
wool yarn.
The first step,
shown below, is to place the hook of the spindle into the end of the wool and
start twisting the spindle in a clockwise motion. This starts what is
called a "leader". When it is about 12 inches long, this
starter yarn is tied around the spindle shaft below the whorl, the yarn is
brought up over the edge of the whorl, and the yarn gets looped around the hook
two or three times. The "open" end of the yarn is the end that has
not yet been twisted. Additional fiber is laid over the top of the open
end of the yarn, overlapping by enough for the fibers to grab evenly and
twisting is continued.
Once the lead yarn
is attached to the spindle, wrap the yarn end once or twice around the hook to
hold the yarn in place as you spin. Spinning is continuous, in a
clockwise motion, to continue to twist the fiber into yarn. I personally
hold the spindle in my right hand, and simply turn the spindle toward me while
drafting the fiber with my left hand. This is not using the spindle as a
"drop" spindle, but I feel this gives me more control over the
dimension or diameter of the yarn.
What can happen
with Merino wool or other similar high-lanolin fibers is that the yarn can
quickly become what is called "thick and thin" if the drafting is not
done evenly. This is shown in the photo below. The example shows
one area where the fibers have slightly clumped together, and another area just
to the right of it that is too thin and the twist is forming a kink. The
fiber closest to the spindle hook is the most evenly spun. This yarn is
being spun at fingering weight. The yarn can easily be used with the
thickness variations that are shown below, in fact, it will give the finished
item that "homespun" look, however, it is not a "perfect"
single. The weakest area is where the kink is, not only because it is
thin, but also because the higher amount of twist will allow the yarn to break
more easily.
Once a yarn is
begun, and you are comfortable with drafting, the spindle can be used in the
"drop position". This means that the spindle is spun clockwise
with the hand, let go of, and allowed to spin suspended in the air, while the
spinner drafts the fibers. When the spinner needs to readjust the draft
area (called the drafting triangle, and is the area where the open non-spun
fiber meets the twisted yarn) the spindle is "parked" by
stopping it from spinning and placed under an arm or otherwise held still until
spinning resumes. The spindle shouldn't be allowed to unwind, or turn in
the counter clockwise direction, as this untwists the yarn.
Merino, like other
short-staple fibers, needs more twist in the yarn than longer fibers, and it's
an individual development for each spinner as to how they start and stop the
spindle in the drop position. The yarn should be moderately to
almost-tightly twisted, keeping in mind that Merino will "puff up" a
bit if the twist is allowed to loosen. If the twist is too loose, the
yarn will break when the spindle is suspended in the air. As the spinner
spins more yarn, the yarn is moved down to the shaft of the spindle (wrapping
it clockwise around the shaft) and stored there until it is removed to a
nostepinde (a ball winder) or cone for future use or for plying.
The method of
"draft, spin, park" is the same whether you are using a top
whorl or a bottom whorl spindle. Below is a photo of how a bottom whorl
spindle is set up for spinning. The lead thread is wrapped around the
stem of the spindle, then down below the whorl and around the stem, and then
back up to the top of the shaft. It is held in place with a half-hitch if
there is no hook on the top of the spindle. The half-hitch acts the same
as a hook, allowing the yarn to gain twist. As shown below, some bottom
whorl spindles have hooks on the top which eliminate the need for the
half-hitch knot.
The most important
factor in either method is controlling the draft of the fibers. Assuming
the spinner is right-handed, the left hand controls the draft. Using the
thumb and index finger, pinch the fiber that is loose where it joins the
already-twisted yarn. Let up on the pinch just enough to let the twist of
the yarn run up into the fibers. You will see a small triangle form where
the fibers from both sides of the loose fiber are pulled together joining into
the twist and creating the yarn. This is called the "drafting
triangle", as described above. It is in this area that the fibers
either flow smoothly or get caught up in a bunch, and it is the amount and
timing of the pinch that determines what happens. With practice, it
becomes an automatic action to draft effectively.
The considerations
regarding the staple length, the lanolin content, and the fine-ness of Merino
wool fiber will enable the spinner to accurately "feel" when the yarn
is at the right balance and has been spun evenly. To check for that
balance in the yarn, hold the drafting triangle in the left hand, the spindle
in the right with the spun yarn on it, and gradually move your two hands
together, allowing the spun yarn to twist together. If it twists evenly
without kinks, it can be referred to as balanced. The directions above
also pertain to any fiber.
With Merino wool,
or other wool fibers, keep in mind that after wrapping the yarn into a skein
and setting the twist, some areas of the yarn will relax or loosen more than
others, depending on how evenly the yarn was spun.
- Knitting
Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts. Knitted fabric consists of consecutive rows of loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This process eventually results in a final product, often a garment.
Knitting may be done by hand or by machine. There exist numerous styles and methods of hand knitting.
Different yarns and knitting needles may be used to achieve different end products by giving the final piece a different colour, texture, weight, and/or integrity. Using needles of varying shape and thickness as well as different varieties of yarn can also change the effect.
simple design but have the power to present the idea of fashion.
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